![]() ![]() > Also, does anyone have any ideas on what style of legs could be used to > bottom of them to attach to the ends of the legs or to place the legs on. > it, I have thought of (3) 3 square inch plywood squares with carpet on the > I have thought of using (1) a plastic runner or (2) a carpet runner under > depressions from the legs appearing in the rug? > It is going to be placed on a pile rug. What thickness, type plywood should I use? > It will be a N scale switching layout built of plywood and foam to keep the ![]() ![]() > I am going to be building an 8 inch deep by 8 feet long layout that will be Lounge room owner (SWMBO!) wanted the room back for it's real purpose :) The L girder benchwork was then attached to the uprights withĪn angular support to hold it up. The meeting of Bruce's! That was me in that text, and yes they workedīrilliantly. Layouts legs and rugs don't live well together, plus other stuff Track height was about 58 inch off the floor. With the closet doors removed, I also had a small 3 track 15 car staging yard in the closet, above my workbench! Most of the benchwork was 18 inches deep. >What were the approximate dimensions of your layout room? This was made from black bed sheets bought at Walmart for $1.99 each! There was also black cloth that hung below the facia. I like the clean shadow box effect created by the black facia and valance. It is suspended by "L" channels used to hold drop ceiling tiles. The defusers were cut from plastic defuser material sold for drop ceiling lights. The valance dropped down from the ceiling and was hung from wall brackets (the same channels held the back drop, benchwork, and DCC shelving). These were plugged into the room's "lamp" switch. There were 3 four foot, two bulb, florissant "shop" light fixtures hanging from the ceiling (if I were to do it again there would be 2 more to cover dark spots in the corners). > I've never seen any layout lighting as cleanly executed as yours. What type of material did you use to filter the lighting in the valance? ![]() >I especially like the job you did on the valance. Thanks Harry, I really enjoyed building it. I'm a dinosaur, I know, but I still think homasote is the ideal track bed, though the stuff is getting harder and harder to find. I decided on homasote as a roadbed, rather than gluing the track down to the foam directly as many people do these days, because I like the flexibility of nailing the track down. I detect no "foam" sound whatever when running atop my homasote/foam "sandwich." > out the sound a little more, or can you still tell Does the homasote on top of the foam deaden > has a higher pitched sound when trains roll across > inch blue foamboard glued to 1/8 in luan plywood > I have a test section on my shelf layout with 2 > adjustable risers, topped with 2 inch foam and > hollow core doors supported by 1X1 legs with > My "shelf" layout is constructed on 2 foot wide You can find Lance Mindheim's books on .Įdited 3 time(s). His approach is clear, and his trackplans get you where you need to go in terms of inspiration and usage. Though his books lack a little of the slick-paper polish of say, MR, the content here is what matters. His approach is definitely several cuts above what you typically read from the normal model RR publishing companies & glossed-up magazines. Simple, Straightforward, Achievable, Detailed. It's the model rairoad equivalent of ""Seven Habits for Highly Effective People." - but for train layouts. Terrific stuff, and I agree with his approach toward the building of layouts of any size. I have no financial interest with Lance or, but I must say that I just love his books on shelf layouts and small layout design. Here is a terrific site from a great modeler - Lance Mindheim: ![]()
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